One of Italy's Most Radical Kitchens Is on a Volcanic Cliff in Sicily
Vegetables taste a bit like a revolution on this island.
Courtesy of Therasia Resort Sea & Spa
The opening
Amid Italy's Aeolian Islands, sunset turns the sea the glowing hue of red pepper juice as dinner unfolds on a seaside cliff like a lucid dream of a new kind of Italian food. A young chef leaves a boxy, glass-walled kitchen to survey a neat lawn. On it, people sit under palm trees, just some 20 to 24 diners a night, all eager to try his radical meals. There is no meat. There is no fish. There is not even pasta.
A scene
The meal unfolds in a rainbow of visually simple, wildly laborious dishes, with sublimely attentive service and an armada of amaro, kombucha, juice, cocktail, and other liquid pairings. The red sun lowers. The volcano breathes sulfur. The meal goes on.
This zucchini tastes so intensely like itself it feels like a hallucination.
This is an excerpt. The full story ran in Food & Wine.